The Centre of the Universe

Published in the Sunday Prajavani on 27 July 2025

I stood before the majestic statue of Devi Ahilya Bai Holkar at the Narmada Ghat. The inscription read, “1727 to 1795.” Reverence filled my heart for this visionary queen, who transformed Indore’s urban landscape and constructed roads and riverfront ghats that still inspire awe centuries later. Her achievements were revolutionary—not just for her time, but even by today’s standards.

Indore, once ruled by the Holkars—a Maratha dynasty prominent in central India—offers a glimpse into a glorious past. It’s also a great base for exploring nearby gems like Ujjain, Mandu, Omkareshwar, and Maheshwar. And of course, a paradise for food lovers, as we soon discovered.

Last September, our family—Veena, Sudhir, Neil, Heta, baby Raya, my daughter Sara, and my mother—set off on a multigenerational holiday to Indore and Maheshwar. Planning such trips is tricky with different interests, so we relied on our Customized Holidays team to curate a perfect blend of “We time” and “Me time.” It allowed us to travel freely without worrying about logistics.

We began with a tranquil boat ride on the Narmada River, heading to the Baleshwar Temple on an island locals call the “center of the universe.” Performing pradakshina there, surrounded by water and serenity, was calming. At dusk, we watched the Narmada Aarti—a spiritual ceremony that lit up the ghats with lamps, chants, and devotion. It was magical.

The next morning, while Veena, Sudhir, and my mother visited Omkareshwar—one of the 12 sacred Jyotirlingas—Neil, Heta, baby Raya, and I lingered in Indore. Drawn again to the river, we returned to the ghats, those ancient steps leading to timeless reflections. I’d seen Varanasi’s ghats, but the Narmada felt gentler, quieter. I promised myself a return trip in winter, just to sit there and watch time slow down.

Near the ghats stood a carved temple, often used as a backdrop for pre-wedding shoots. At Veena World, we get plenty of requests for photo shoots in destinations like Dubai or Paris. But here I was, surrounded by heritage and beauty, realizing how many gems lie within India. A local photographer approached us for a shoot. I hesitated, but Neil encouraged me to say yes. He was right—it turned into a fun, memorable experience with beautiful photographs to cherish.

Later that day, we reunited and visited Maheshwar’s handloom centers. Known for its Maheshwari sarees, Maheshwar is a textile hub rooted in tradition. At Rehwa Society, we watched artisans dye yarn, thread looms, and weave patterns with care. Every saree had a tag with the weaver’s name—a lovely personal touch. Naturally, we left with some handpicked sarees and dupattas.

Our culinary adventure began at Indore’s Chhappan Dukaan, a street food stretch with 56 stalls. Rain couldn’t dampen our mood. We started with tangy kachoris and pattices, moved on to Johnny Hot Dogs—a local legend—and sampled dabeli, corn chaat, and kulhad pizza (yes, pizza served in a clay cup!). Every bite was a flavor explosion. We left stuffed and smiling.

We walked off our feast at Lalbagh Palace, built by the Holkars between the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Inspired by European design, it features marble columns, gilded ceilings, and a ballroom with spring-loaded floors for dancers. Once surrounded by blooming rose gardens, Lalbagh is regal, elegant, and full of history.

Next came Rajwada Palace, a seven-story structure in the heart of Indore. Built over 200 years ago, it combines Maratha, Mughal, and French elements. A stone base supports a wooden upper floor, and despite suffering fire damage over the years, Rajwada remains a cultural icon. Nearby, the Holkar Chhatris—cenotaphs dedicated to Holkar rulers—stand in quiet tribute. The area pulses with the legacy of a royal past.

At night, we headed to Sarafa Bazaar, a jewelry market by day and a food haven by night. Jewelers planned it that way to keep the area lively and safe. Our first stop was Joshi Vadawala, where I sweet-talked my way to the last dish! Sarafa’s offerings were unforgettable—garadu chaat, bhutte ka kees, sizzling tandoori, malpua, jalebi with rabdi, and my favorite—jamun shots. The market hums with life from 10 p.m. to 3 a.m.—perfect for late-night wanderers.

But this trip wasn’t just about sightseeing or food—it was about family. Sara shared a room with Neil and Heta, proudly embracing her new role as aunt to baby Raya. We all took turns entertaining her with stories and songs. Traveling with a baby is far easier than people imagine, especially with a supportive family. The bonding we experienced was priceless.

On our final day, we packed our bags for the airport. Sara ensured everyone had completed their DigiYatra check-ins. Watching her guide her grandmother through the digital process was heartwarming. This is what an Indian holiday looks like—tech-savvy youth and wise elders learning from one another, sharing space, time, and memories.

Indore had truly captured our hearts. Known as the cleanest city in India, it offered us so much more than a break. It gave us laughter, legacy, love, and countless memories. From grand palaces and tranquil ghats to handcrafted sarees and midnight snacks, every moment felt meaningful.

So pack your bags, gather your loved ones, and set out. India is full of stories waiting to be lived—and there’s no better time than now for a family holiday you’ll never forget.